All the colors of the coast in Vietri's beautiful ceramics

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All the colors of the coast in Vietri's beautiful ceramics

19 June 2017

Known as the “Gateway to the Amalfi Coast,” Vietri sul Mare is a mecca for ceramic collectors.

The architecture along the southern Italian coast in Campania is unmistakable. It has adapted over time to the warm coastal climate: thick, whitewashed walls to keep the indoors cool, high vaulted ceilings and large windows to let in the refreshing sea breeze, flat roofs that double as sun-washed terraces, and brightly-painted terracotta tiles inspired by the jewel tones of the Mediterranean: blues for the crystalline sea, greens for the lush cliffs, and yellows for the famous citrus groves. These majolica tiles decorate everything from the floors of elegant private villas to the domes of historic churches, and they’re made in the tiny town of Vietri sul Mare. Located just north of Salerno and known as the “Gateway to the Amalfi Coast,” Vietri is a mecca for ceramic collectors. Its historic center is filled with artisan shops that have been producing hand-painted tiles, decor, religious art, and tableware for generations. Vietri sul Mare on the Amalfi Coast - by Karlis Dambrans Vietri sul Mare on the Amalfi Coast - by Karlis Dambrans

Vietri sul Mare, the most colorful village on the Amalfi Coast

A delightfully colorful village set on the cliff-side directly above the sea, Vietri has been an important center for ceramic production since the 15th century. The town’s fame reached its peak in the 16th and 17th centuries, when locally-produced majolica became fashionable among Naples’ aristocracy. Over the following 100 years, Vietri went from sleepy fishing village to thriving artisan capital. Its artisans specialized in ceramic holy water fonts, votive tiles, and large ceramic murals of saints and religious scenes that decorate the coast’s churches and edicole, or small public shrines found along city streets or high on the facades of private palazzi. Beautiful murals everywhere in Vietri sul Mare - by Karlis Dambrans Beautiful murals everywhere in Vietri sul Mare - by Karlis Dambrans

By the 19th century, Vietri’s ceramic production began to slow. Industrial ceramics replaced artisan majolica, and southern Italy’s economic hardships led to the mass migration of the coastal population towards northern Italy and across the Atlantic. The town was revived in the 1920s, however, by the arrival of European artists who began to settle on the Amalfi Coast, bringing a new creative influx and appreciation for the history and tradition of Vietri ceramics. From the early 20th century to 1947, the “German Period” —named for the importance of artisans hailing from Germany—saw an expansion and evolution of the town’s ceramic production. Religious themes gave way to depictions of the landscape and people: fishermen and washerwomen, traditional fishing boats, ciucciariello pack donkeys, the coastline, and the sea. German artisans brought technical expertise, including skills in engineering and chemistry, and created signature colors like the famed “Vietri yellow.” Today, Vietri’s primary production is colorful tableware, decorative ceramics, and majolica art.

What to see in Vietri sul Mare

Street in Vietri sul Mare - by Karlis Dambrans Street in Vietri sul Mare - by Karlis Dambrans

Even if you were to stumble across the humble town of Vietri sul Mare without knowing its history, a quick stroll through the center would be enough to tell you you’re visiting the “Ceramic capital of the south.” From the bright yellow- and blue-tiled dome of the 18th century Neapolitan Renaissance church of San Giovanni Battista to quaint, hand-lettered ceramic street signs, Vietri and its long history of majolica are inextricably intertwined. Strolling along the streets, you’ll pass colorful tile murals and majolica shrines decorating the local homes and shops. Head to the pedestrian Via Madonna degli Angeli, where the town’s famous ceramic shops sit elbow-to-elbow, sporting eye-popping painted facades and multi-colored wares spilling out onto the sidewalk. Though they may seem similar at first glance, each shop sells unique items that vary according to the style of the artist. A favorite local pattern is the campagna dinnerware, featuring farmyard animals and fish painted in bright Mediterranean colors in a charmingly rustic naïf style.
Getting to Vietri Vietri is an easy day trip from the more famous towns further north along the Amalfi Coast. If you are traveling by public transportation, you can take the Sita bus from Amalfi to Vietri, which is a stop along the Amalfi - Salerno line. If you tend to get motion sickness, consider taking the ferry from Amalfi to Salerno, then take the much shorter bus ride back north along the coast to Vietri sul Mare. If you are driving, you can simply head south as Vietri sul Mare sits along the famous highway 163, the winding coastal road that runs from Positano all the way to Salerno. Consider a stop at Cetara just north of Vietri, a pretty fishing village famous for its fresh tuna and traditional Colatura di Alici, a fermented anchovy sauce.

Vietri ceramics: past and future

From Villa Guariglia - by Fiore Silvestro Barbato From Villa Guariglia - by Fiore Silvestro Barbato

To discover more about Vietri sul Mare’s tradition of majolica, visit the Museo delle Ceramiche di Vietri located in the village of Raito, high above Vietri. The collection is displayed in the lovely Villa Guariglia, and includes local majolica pieces dating from the 17th century to the German Period. Trace the evolution of the local style from the staid religious art of the 1600s to the lay themes of German artists Richard Dolker and Irene Kowaliska, who revisited Classical tales from the Odyssey, and the modern color palette of Margarete Thewalt-Hannasch’s Madonnas and nativity scenes. After a trip through Vietri’s past, get a look at its future by visiting the Ceramica Artistica Solimene majolica factory. Its striking headquarters were designed in 1954 by Paolo Soleri, who was influenced by his time studying under American architect Frank Lloyd Wright. The outside of the building is clad in colored circular ceramic tiles and glass: it’s one of the few examples of modern architecture on the Amalfi Coast. Inside, the showroom sells Solimene’s distinctive majolica pieces in a variety of modern designs and styles.

Bring home the colors of the Amalfi Coast

Most of what makes the Amalfi Coast so unique that it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997 can’t be taken home with you: the excellent Mediterranean cuisine, the relaxed seaside pace, the informal yet elegant towns. But Vietri offers prime souvenir material: choose a piece of festive Vietri ceramics as a one-of-a-kind artisan souvenir, from colorful dishes to decorative vases, or even a wine amphora to serve local wines of Campania (which you should also save room in your suitcase for). You’ll be reminded of the coast’s deep turquoise coves, sunny lemon groves, and lush tropical gardens every day...until you make it back for your next visit, of course! Ceramics for sale in Vietri sul Mare - by Karlis Dambrans Ceramics for sale in Vietri sul Mare - by Karlis Dambrans

Purchasing ceramics: the practicalities With airlines tightening their luggage limits, it may not be practical for you to carry large ceramic pieces home in your checked or carry-on bags. Consider having your purchases shipped, as many of the shops in Vietri sul Mare are experienced in international shipping and can take care of the arrangements. If you do decide to carry your purchases with you (and you have spent a significant amount of money), be sure to get claim your VAT refund at the airport before you fly home. It’s not a very straightforward process, so be sure you follow all the steps carefully.

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