31 July 2023

Travaglini is a story of great passion. A dream that has passed from one generation to another for over a century, recounting the dedication and love for the land of Gattinara.

Travaglini, in a way, is Gattinara. The winery possesses the widest vineyard area in the territory and is definitely one of the most historic in the area. Founded by Clemente Travaglini in the 1920s, today it is led by Cinzia Travaglini, her husband Massimo Collauto, and their daughters Alessia and Carolina.

A story about the pursuit of a distinct type of quality, one that can also be recognized in the creation of an iconic bottle which is now the symbol of the denomination. We are talking about the famous “slanted” bottle designed by Giancarlo Travaglini in 1958: a sinuous and very elegant glass container that perfectly combines design and functionality.

To recount the incredible history of this family and the profound bond it shares with Gattinara, Travaglini organized a Vertical Tasting in March of this year: an exceptional event that literally opened the cellar's archives. This unique and unforgettable experience provided participants with an unparalleled insight into the Gattinara DOCG. Just to give an idea, starting from the recent outstanding vintages, attendees had the opportunity to “travel back” to 1967, uncorking a 3-liter imperial bottle from that vintage, defined as «a true masterpiece, a horizon to behold, like a sky that gives complete meaning to where we are: Gattinara, Alto Piemonte».

To have a glimpse on this momentous and unmissable vertical tasting, we interviewed Alessia Travaglini, representing the family’s fifth generation.

Alessia, what happened in your winery last March 30, 2023?

Just a few days before Vinitaly, when focus on wine in Italy was at its peak, and journalists and industry professionals arrived in the country from all over the world, we decided to organize a special event at the winery. A true “journey back in time” to explore the profound soul of Gattinara in its historical evolution. 

What was the event like?

We organized an exceptional vertical tasting. We started selecting the bottles as early as November of last year, preparing everything down to the smallest detail. Whenever possible, we exclusively chose large-sized bottles (Magnums and 3-liter bottles) that are key to the history of our winery. Starting from the Magnum bottle of Gattinara 2015, we reached the 1967 Riserva, passing through Gattinara Tre Vigne (2014, 2005 and 2000) and Gattinara Riserva from 2010 to 1996. Finally, we tasted the Gattinara vintages of 1974 and 1968, which are practically impossible to find elsewhere and are still available in very limited numbers in our cellar. We also had the opportunity to taste two special vintages of Il Sogno (a wine made from overripe Nebbiolo grapes). My grandfather Giancarlo conceived the idea for this label but, unfortunately, he was not able to see it come to life.

Why did you decide to organize this vertical tasting?

It was the right moment to do so. After two years of the Covid pandemic and seeing how we were slowly gaining back some kind of normalcy, we felt the need to organize in-person gatherings. We never stopped working on new projects even during the pandemic: we carried out new plantings in Gattinara and renovated the winery. We wanted this tasting to mark a new beginning and be the perfect opportunity to showcase the innovations that Travaglini has been implementing in the last three years. 

Which kind of emotions did this tasting evoke? 

Definitely a lot. First and foremost, it revealed the absolute longevity of Gattinara: bottles over 60 years of age were in excellent condition, even more dynamic and fresh than some recent vintages. Each selected vintage also had a story to tell. For instance, the 2014 vintage (during which we had to discard 20% of the production due to excessive rainfall) was included because it still is a vintage that divides critics and enthusiasts. The 1997 vintage corresponds to the year of my birth, while 1999 to that of my sister, Carolina; 1967 was when our mother, Cinzia, was born. Tasting the 2004 vintage of Il Sogno (made from overripe Nebbiolo grapes) was also highly symbolic: it is the label’s first vintage and, at the same time, the year our grandfather Giancarlo passed away. He had long planned and “dreamed” of that wine. 

After so many tastings, what picture emerges of Gattinara?

A noble wine, one that can gracefully age over time. This vertical tasting showed a prominent image of the territory: a truly unique place due to its ancient volcanic origin. The soil revealed its complex (rich in rocks and minerals) and acidic nature (with pH levels between 4 and 5) even after decades, incorporating minerality and freshness into the evolution of Gattinara and contributing to making this wine vibrant, dynamic, and rich in nuances. We observed this while serving the old vintages. We decanted them for about 45 minutes and served them in the glass just before they reached the peak of their flavor. We fell in love with how those wines opened up in the glass, continuously changing minute after minute, offering new emotions every time. We can define Gattinara as «romantic». A wine that slowly reveals itself, unveiling all the sides of its extraordinary “beauty”, bit by bit.