01 September 2023
Alberto di Grésy retraces the 50-year history of Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy and the winery’s bond with the wine hills: the family story dating back to the 17th century and the official debut in 1973.
«Hardships have never fazed us. Our first harvest was in 1973, the year following the most disastrous one for Barbaresco – that tragic 1972 – when the entire production was downgraded due to unfavorable weather. In 2019, a few months before the pandemic, we inaugurated Dai Grésy, an agritourism facility in Treiso overlooking the Langhe and the Alps and now in full operation».
This is how the conversation with Alberto Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy e Casasco about the winery’s 50th anniversary began. It's an exceptionally long name, as long as the family's history and their relationship with the Langhe hills, which Alberto has been highly familiar with and have, in some way, marked his life. Alberto is one of the key figures of the Barbaresco renaissance, a man carrying a thousand anecdotes and with a subtle irony, capable of combining the elegance of noble origins with the practicality of the «Langhetti» (local residents of Langhe). Most of all, he is a man who gives a face to one of the most extraordinary vineyards in the denomination: Martinenga, Marchesi’s monopole cru since the 18th century.
Alberto, how did the story of Marchesi di Grésy in Barbaresco begin?
The Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy – descendants of the Marchesi di Grésy-sur-Isère from the Haute-Savoie – have been present in Langhe since the 17th century. In 1650, in Monte Aribaldo (where the agritourism is currently located), the family owned a lodge for hunting, which was one of their favorite hobbies. They lived in Turin, but they also had properties in Cassine, in the region of Monferrato (obtained after Carlo di Grésy married Giulia Pellizzari in 1899), where we now find the La Serra and Monte Colombo estates. Martinenga was officially acquired in 1797 and has been owned by our family’s since then.
What was Martinenga like before Barbaresco became successful?
It was a typical multi-purpose farm in Langhe. It was run by sharecroppers who took care of everything. They grew wheat, corn, vegetables, peaches and hazelnuts. They also raised bucin d’la coscia, the famous Piedmontese Fassone that always won the fair in Treiso. But Martinenga was particularly known for its grapes: they were sold to local brokers and prestigious producers in the area, who greatly appreciated them. Consider that, since 1967, grapes from Martinenga have been vinified separately to obtain a cru of Barbaresco!
Why did you decide to take over the company in 1973?
I was 21 and my mother needed help in managing the estates. Besides, Martinenga represented the beauty of my childhood. I was born in Milan during a period characterized by intense industrial development. I clearly remember how you could breathe in the smoke from the chimneys in the city. Whenever I went to the Langhe, I felt a different connection with nature: life was lived outdoors, in contact with beauty. But it was some advice from the sharecroppers that ultimately convinced me. «Fate furb matot – they told me, with that practical spirit of theirs – che tai da fe cröta». Which means “be smart, you have to make wine if you want to succeed here”.
What was so special about Martinenga?
It was – and still is – an extraordinary amphitheater of vineyards overlooking the Tanaro River, one of the largest single-body plots of the denomination, characterized by a wide range of exposures and altitudes. Even then, Martinenga already presented different microclimates, soils and pedological characteristics. Martinenga is a mosaic of the rich expressiveness of Barbaresco: a single vineyard with many souls, all noble and elegant. We express all of this through three different labels: Barbaresco DOCG Martinenga, whose first vintage dates to 1973; Barbaresco DOCG Gaiun Martinenga, born in 1982 from a selection of a part of a vineyard located in «Asili». And finally, Barbaresco DOCG Camp Gros Martinenga, our Riserva: vinified from a plot of the vineyard that borders Rabajà and yields a Barbaresco with an incredible potential for aging.
Which goals did you have in mind when you started making wine?
I had a simple and clear dream. I wanted to invite people who would taste the wines of Marchesi di Grésy to be part of the beauty and excellence of this place. As I worked over the years, I have always kept this idea in my mind: quality is the result of work in the vineyard, and I am lucky enough to cultivate extraordinary ones. So why not bring the fruit of this “extraordinariness” around the world?
And did you succeed?
The most fascinating thing about my work is the recognition that our labels have received among wine lovers. I have travelled all around the world and found people who have expressed their appreciation. It is truly magical to receive the support of people I have never met: a bond created by the wine that you made, and they have tasted. This means that I have been able to convey something to others, that I can make people feel good through my work.
Are you planning something special to celebrate the company’s 50th anniversary?
Nothing except improving what we do best: wine. We want to continuously understand and enhance the wine heritage that we have between Langhe and Monferrato, proudly bringing our labels all over the world. Moreover, I am working alongside a new generation: my children, Alessandro and Ludovica, have been fully managing the company for over 10 years.
Is there fierce competition between producers from Piedmont?
It’s less fierce than one may think. After all, on a global scale, we are but a small group of producers from a tiny area of Piedmont. This unites us, making us a group that grows together, side by side. We compete to be more competitive, to increase skills and quality. But we also help one another, because we know that the success of a producer can be a driving force for the whole sector: in the end, we all grow together.
What are your plans for the future, perhaps a new label?
Some say we have way too many of those (laughs). We want to increasingly focus on respecting the environment and the biodiversity of vineyards. This is not a mere “green” approach, but also a way to better understand the identity of the vineyards and their elegant expression in the wines. We are proud to be an organic company, there’s no need to say it aloud. We know that the greatness of wine lies in the vineyard. Attention to the environment is what makes the difference and helps create local wines.
If you could go back in time, would you do another job?
My wife already tried. Few people know that I have a degree in Economics and Commerce, and I passed the exam as an accountant. Well, she has repeatedly tried to make me “count”, but I have always purposely did it wrong (laughs loudly)! I have always returned to Langhe, to my Martinenga and my vineyards. I’m lucky to have always had the freedom to do what I love.
